How to Store Your Valuable Skincare

When you’re buying high-efficacy products built with scientific potency and delivery methods, you want to protect your investment but more than that, you want your products to work the way they’re supposed to!

Environmental factors such as heat, light and air exposure can accelerate the breakdown of many of the essential anti-aging ingredients that your skincare products contain.

Vitamin C, for example, can help brighten skin, stimulate collagen and defend against UV damage but it is also known to be unstable (which is why we so carefully choose the Vitamin C products we carry and recommend for clients.) This means that choosing the right brand, formulation, and storage method is the key to Vitamin C efficacy -- and all other actives.

For Most Skincare There are Three Storage Guidelines:

ONE_No sun, treat them like vampires!
Direct sunlight can accelerate the degradation of many anti-aging compounds, so keeping your products in your car or near a bathroom window may lower their effectiveness.

Instead, choose a dark location, such as underneath your bathroom countertop or in another cabinet or drawer where they’ll be protected from the light. Look for opaque containers and airless pumps when available. Both of these packaging methods help protect products.

TWO_Not too hot, not too cold
While keeping skincare products cool in the fridge can help to improve their shelf life, freezing temperatures has the opposite effect. Freezing products can render active ingredients ineffective. Eye creams, retinoids, and Vitamin C products can benefit from moderate refrigeration at home -- which is probably why the ‘skincare fridge’ is suddenly popular because running to the fridge AM and PM to retrieve your skincare seems a little cumbersome.

If you live somewhere with cold winters, like Colorado, make sure you’re not storing any products on window sills or other areas where the air temperature might drop below freezing.

THREE_Avoid Steam
A lot of people simply store skincare products on the bathroom countertop or in the shower, but these are some of the worst places to keep your products. The steam from the shower can break down key active ingredients, not to mention the fact that steamy environments provide the perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew.

Keep your products out of the shower. If you are going to keep them in the bathroom, use a cabinet or storage area that opens and closes and be sure the cabinet is closed while showering.

Cannula + Filler for Cheek Augmentation. Now FDA Approved.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved the use of Juvéderm Voluma XC, a hyaluronic acid gel dermal filler, with a TSK STERiGLIDE™ cannula for cheek augmentation to correct age-related volume deficit in the mid-face in adults over 21. A cannula is a thin, flexible tube with a rounded tip that can serve as an effective delivery system. The use of a cannula allows for the injection of Juvéderm Voluma XC in the cheek area with natural results and beautiful precision. The TSK STERiGLIDE™ has a unique design compared to other cannulas available on the market and features a patented tip design with a near-tip delivery port for precise product placement.

At Leah Nickie Advanced Aesthetics we have been using this method for years and have perfected the use of cannulas for fillers. Now the technique of cannula injection is being nationally recognized as the most preferred method for the best results. 

“As a physician specializing in facial structure and rejuvenation, I am very happy to see this receive FDA approval. For fillers in the mid-face, there is no better approach than the use of cannulas. We have been using cannulas for several years and find they help achieve smoothly sculpted results with much less bruising. ” said Dr. Julie Seaman, a Board Certified Physician and Medical Director for Leah Nickie Advanced Aesthetics.

"At Allergan, we are committed to driving innovation in medical aesthetics as well as providing best-in-class injector training to our customers," says Carrie Strom, Senior Vice President of U.S. Allergan Medical Aesthetics. "With this approval, Allergan will be able to educate on facial anatomy and injection techniques that will help healthcare providers administer treatment with Juvéderm Voluma XC safely to achieve optimal patient satisfaction."

A multicenter, split-face, investigator-blinded, non-inferiority study was performed to assess the safety and effectiveness of Juvéderm Voluma XC for correction of age-related volume deficit in the mid-face with the use of a TSK STERiGLIDE™ cannula versus a needle. The 12-week study took place in seven sites across the U.S. with 60 subjects. 

Within the Juvéderm Collection of Fillers, this is the first approval for the use of cannula. Juvéderm Voluma XC was first approved by the FDA in 2013 and is formulated with Allergan's proprietary VYCROSS® technology, which blends different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid, contributing to the gel's duration and is proven to last in the mid-face area for up to 24 months with optimal treatment. Juvéderm Voluma XC is currently the best-selling Juvéderm product in the US.

Reach out to info@leahnickie.com if you want to set up a consultation appointment and learn more about facial fillers and the use of cannulas.

What You Need to Know About the “Gentler Facelift” Called a PDO Thread Lift

The rise of noninvasive procedures has shifted the aesthetic culture. Patients now are asking for less invasive, less painful, less expensive procedures with short recovery times. Thread-lifts are one of the most popular and last for up to six months. 

Conceptually, the thread-lift is the suspension of falling facial soft tissue via a thread subcutaneously inserted in the skin. It is an easy, fast, in-office procedure in which a barbed suture thread is inserted via a cannula into the skin through a needle puncture. The thread is essentially “hooked” to the skin and, with a minimal amount of tightening, the skin is lifted and the suture is cut at the insertion point. The sutures dissolve and, over time, produce scar tissue, forming a scaffold, lifting the skin.

The thread-lifts initially came onto the market in the late 1990s but were difficult to use and the technology was not as good as what we have now. The newest technology threads – NovaThreads and the Silhouette Instalift – have recently received Food and Drug Administration clearance and grown in popularity because of their “lunchtime” appeal and their ease of use. 

Until recently, the only way to address problems caused by facial skin laxities—such as jowls and drooping cheeks—was facelift surgery. After all, while skin resurfacing treatments can help to restore some degree of firmness, once loose skin is present, only a scalpel can truly remove it. However, while the approach of relying on injectable compounds and skin resurfacing until facelift surgery becomes necessary works for many patients, not everyone is willing or able to have surgery. If you're in this group, you'll be happy to know that a new type of procedure has been developed to fill in the gap between noninvasive facial rejuvenation and facelift surgery: The "thread lift."

Primarily marketed for the neck, jowls, and lower face, these threads – available in various sizes, lengths, and diameters – can be used almost anywhere. The sutures dissolve over time and do not need any anchoring, making it a very simple in-office procedure.

Side effects include mild procedural pain, swelling, bruising, and rarely, suture granuloma formation.   If not done properly, buckling of the skin can occur and superficially placed sutures can be visible. It’s important to work with a provider who can provide a sterile technique, has experience with PDO Thread Lifts, and an experienced approach to facial anatomy.

Similar to fillers that provide a “liquid face-lift,” the downtime is minimal. Bruising is rare on the face, but more common on the forehead. Soreness, particularly in or near the hairline or jawline, is common and can last up to 2 weeks. Patients should refrain from heavy exercise and opening their mouth wide with chewing for 5-7 days (such as eating a large apple). Minor dimpling on the skin can occur and usually resolves on its own.

Thread lifts are low risk, thanks to how noninvasive they are. There is virtually no risk of significant scarring, severe bruising, bleeding or other complications after having a thread lift. In rare cases, patients may experience irritation, infection or their sutures becoming visible under their skin. If this occurs, however, the sutures can be removed and the patient's face will return to its prior state.

The ideal thread lift candidate is usually in his or her late thirties to early sixties. Thread lifts have more subtle results compared to facelifts, therefore, the procedure is not indicated for severe laxity and volume loss. The tissue is not released from its underlying attachments, and skin contraction and gravitational pull limit its extent of improvement and its longevity.  The ideal candidate is one who is looking for gradual improvement, minimal downtime and mild lifting.

When used in combination with Kybella to decrease the size of the jowl, dermal filler to restore volume loss, neuromodulators to soften fine lines and PDO sutures to lift lax tissue, the results can be impressive.  Over time and with repeated treatments, these modalities promote your own natural healing processes to build scaffolding and collagen for a longer-lasting, natural-looking you.

If you have questions or are interested in a PDO Thread Lift, Dr. Julie Seaman and Krissy Melvin PA-c have openings in the Fall and a free consultation is easy to get set up. 

Sources:

American Society of Plastic Surgeons

MD Edge

NY Post

Allure Magazine

A Little Lip: Our Team’s Favorite Lip Coats for Summah + The 5 Things You Need to Know about Lip Care

During summer months a great pair of sunnies, a slick of SPF, and a schmear of lippy are all you need to look pulled together -- fast. We’d rather spend time laughing with friends, dipping into the ocean or pool, or sipping an elixir than re-applying makeup in the heat. While we adore so many of the color trends for this summer: fuschia! coral! red tints! apricot! we each picked our go-to favorite lip combinations for summer to share with you.

Leah: Odacité Aventurine Kiss lip serum with G.M. Collin Repair Lip Balm on top. When I’m hiking, on the mountain boarding or by the water, I always use Elta MD’s Lip Balm SPF 31. That’s it!

Carey: Ok, first off, I get my lips microdermed every month to make sure they’re smooth! And my favorite lip hydrator/gloss in one is G.M. Collins Lip Plumping Complex in rose.

Dr. Julie: I love, love Bobbi Brown Luxe Lip in Bahama Brown.

Krissy: I am obsessed with Chanel Rouge Coco #119

The 5 Things You Need to Know About Taking Care of Your Lips

1. Don’t touch or lick them -- doing so not only becomes a habit, once your hand leaves your lips and the saliva dries, they will feel drier than ever.
2. Hydrate -- dry lips are a sure sign of dehydration
3. Keep them hydrated overnight and during flights (oh hi there, GM Collin Repair Lip Balm -- sold out 3x already this year!)
4. Use a mild lip scrub and/or have your lips exfoliated during your microdermabrasion treatments
5. Do not let them burn! Not only is it painful, but it can also inflame the herpes virus and increase your chances of getting cancer. 

Do Face Mists Really Do Anything?

Yes, if you choose wisely, facial mists can improve your skin’s hydration and soften skin for up to six hours according to a Skin Research & Technology study. The Study also showed that the half-a-micrometer mists penetrated cells the best.

Some people call face mists the best “two-second hack” you can add to your routine -- easy to use, big benefit.

Beyond that, clients tell us there are three top reasons to use them.

1. Keep one in the fridge and mist when you’re over-heated or feel flushed.
2. Keep one at your desk, and mist (even over makeup) when you’re hella stressed. It’s a beautiful feeling and encourages you to b r e a t h e.
3. One of our clients decants her GM Collin Hydramucine Treating Mist into a tiny sprayer (re-purposed vessel) and never flies on a plane without it, having noticed the considerable difference in her pallor without it.

Much like essences (popularized in Asia), facial oils and micellar water, face mists are an underrated product in the world of skin care. While many people wrongly assume a face mist is just overpriced scented water, a quality mist is actually much more than that if you choose the right kind.

Facial mists are a versatile beauty essential that fight dryness, brighten a dull complexion, and help revitalize tired skin. Plus, they work with every skin type.

“A facial mist can be refreshing and hydrating to the skin. It’s especially useful for those who have sensitive or extremely dry skin, travel frequently or live in dry climates,” says Dr. Kally Papantoniou, a New York-based cosmetic dermatologist.

“Face mists that don’t just have water, but also ingredients that promote hydration and water retention work best,” says Dr. Papantoniou.

Here’s a brief guide to help you choose the right facial mist:

For Dry Skin: Look for mists that contain ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and squalane. These ingredients boost hydration and plump skin cells. “They also help to hold in moisture and heal the damaged skin barrier,”

For Normal or Combination Skin: “Normal and combination skin can get away with using more varied ingredients, a balanced mist that contains hyaluronic acid, rose water, and essential oils, if desired, would work well,” notes Dr. Papantoniou.

For Oily or Acne-Prone Skin: “Face mists that are oil and silicone free should be used to prevent clogged pores and oil build-up,” says Dr. Papantoniou. Rose water and aloe-based mists can be very effective in reducing inflammation and soothing acne-prone skin. “Face mists rich in antioxidants such as green tea are also helpful in reducing inflammation associated with acne,” she adds.

For Sensitive Skin: Pick a face mist with a basic, hydrating formula that’s gentle on your skin.

For Fighting Signs of Aging: Facial sprays that contain ingredients like tea extract, Vitamins C and E, pomegranate extract, alpha, and beta hydroxy acids and grapeseed extract are great options.

We have personally tested, recommend, and carry:
Odacité Hydra-Purifying Mist $42

• Purpose: Hydrate & purify oily, acne-prone skin
• This clearing facial mist is a very effective and innovative way to infuse your skin with purifying actives while offering sufficient oil-free hydration.
• Each tiny drop of this divinely scented mist is formulated to care for oily, breakout-prone skin and promote a fresh, clear appearance.
• Rich in a compound similar to salicylic acid, Willow Bark helps to visibly clarify the look of pimple-prone skin as it deeply purifies and minimizes the appearance of pores. Aloe Vera infuses the skin with optimum hydration while Green Tea extract delivers powerful antioxidants.
• Peppermint is a powerful ally that helps to remove excess oil and reduce dullness.
• This mist instantly brings back comfort and glow to the skin.
• 100% NATURAL • GMO-FREE • VEGAN • GLUTEN FREE

GM Collin Mists to address various concerns including sensitive, moisture, and purifying. $38

SENSIDERM TREATING MIST
For sensitive skin of all types.

• A fragrance and alcohol-free moisturizing mist that provides a superior soothing effect.
• Treats sensitive skin, thanks to its magical formula composed of honey and aloe vera extracts.

HYDRAMUCINE TREATING MIST
For dehydrated skin of all types.

• A toning mist that restores cutaneous hydration and allows the skin to protect itself against dehydrating conditions better.
• Contains botanical and natural extracts.
• Leaves the skin feeling refreshed with an immediate sensation of comfort.

PURACTIVE + TREATING MIST
For normal to oily skin.

• A purifying, hydrating, and mattifying mist that minimizes the appearance of pores.
• Soothes and purifies the skin.

All About Retinol: The Absolute Best Anti-Aging Skin Care Product You Can Use

What is the one thing that effectively increases collages, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, fights acne, and evens out skin tone? Yep, Retinol.

If you know Leah, then you know this already! But what’s new is how many ways you can get retinol into your skincare routine.

What you need to know about retinol and your choices:

• All retinol is a Vitamin A derivative
• Prescription strength is still the strongest/most potent
• But!
• These include tretinoin (sold under brand names like Retin-A, Atralin, and Renova) and tazarotene (Tazorac) and adapalene (Differin), which the Food and Drug Administration approved in 2016 to be sold without a prescription.
• You can get the same results with these, it simply takes longer due to potency
• Irritation can happen
• We advise you stair-step this into your regimen and always use it as your PM skincare base so it has close contact with skin and doesn’t have to get “through” any other products to do its job
• Use a pea-sized amount ( unless your skin care professional directs you to use more)  2x/week at night to start
• after 2 weeks, increase 3x/week
• after 2 more weeks (5-6 weeks total), try every other night on bare, clean skin
• After 2 additional weeks, apply every night
• Reduce frequency if irritation occurs
• Redness and irritation do not equal “it’s working harder”
• If you are struggling, ask your skin care professional to help; there are ways to “buffer” the strength of Retinol at home but you get some guidance!
• Using Retinols in your 20s is the right time to start, if you’re over age 20, start now.
• Pregnant or nursing? Do NOT use.
• Using only one form is recommended. So, if it’s prescribed, plus you have it in your face oil, and you have it in a serum -- that’s too much. You won’t get better results. The key is to use the form that has the potency you need to reach your goals and in a form you will use consistently.
• Not sure? That’s what we’re here for! Ask us anything on social or bring it up at your next facial.